Goodbye Chemtrails, Hello Blue Skies!
The Do-It-Yourself Kit for Sky Repair
By Ken Adachi <Editor>
http://educate-yourself.org/ct/goodbyects10jan02.shtml
Jan. 10. 2002
A couple of years ago, I was standing outside a restaurant on a sunny day
in southern California showing Joanna Beck, wife of Dr. Bob Beck, just how
simple it was to disperse clouds using The Visual Ray
(http://educate-yourself.org/tjc/visualray21may0.shtml), a technique I
learned from reading Trevor James Constable's book, The Cosmic Pulse of
Life. After demonstrating the technique to her on a couple of smaller
clouds, we worked together on evaporating a particular large cumulus cloud
and noticed how the blueness of the sky was slightly darker where the large
cloud had existed only a few minutes earlier, a result of intensified orgone
energy ( http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcwhatisorgone.shtml ) accumulating
in that area.
Almost simultaneously, we wondered aloud whether a group of people could
use this technique to break up chemtrails! I tried it a number of times on
my own, but I couldn't get chemtrail 'clouds' to break up and disperse the
same way normal clouds would and I wondered silently whether a Cloudbuster,
a simple invention of Wilhelm Reich.to direct orgone energy in the
atmosphere, could tackle the job.
Over the course of 35 years, Trevor Constable had modified Reich's
original long pipe arrayed Cloudbuster down to a much smaller, compact, and
simpler design that could 'make' or 'break' weather in any direction he
chose: He could make rain or stop it; he could relieve drought and break up
smog or create a dry spell and intensify smog conditions. The manner in
which you manipulate the atmospheric ether in a given area is the key.
Trevor discovered that success depends on how you apply his Cloudbuster
design to direct the flow of etheric energy. Its normal movement is from
west to east in northern latitudes. If you reverse its flow and build up
clouds, you'll get rain. If the flow of orgone is stagnated and bottled up,
you'll get drought or smog. If you release the etheric flow after being
'bottled up' or stuck during a dry spell, you will get torrential rains.
There is likely no civilian on the face of this earth who has accumulated
more expertise about weather engineering than Trevor James Constable
However, the hero of this article is Don Croft, a man who was already
familiar with Reich's observations of orgone energy and his invention of the
Cloudbuster. Don was talking one day with a man who told him about a
radionics type device that he obtained over the internet. He said that paid
over $500 for a plastic box which contained some dials and mostly metal
shavings and epoxy resin.
Don was intrigued and read more information about the device. The maker of
the device had capitilized on an observation that Wilhelm Reich had written
about in one of his books on orgone energy, The Cancer Biopathy. Reich found
that any organic material, when juxtapositioned with metal, will act as an
absorber of orgone energy which is first attracted to and then reflected
away by the metal. The device maker was calling his device an orgone
generator (abbreviated "orgen" here). Apparently, an orgen can generate the
positive form of orgone ("OR") energy by transmuting or neutralizing the
deadly or negative form of orgone energy dubbed "DOR" . Orgone accumulators
, on the other hand, can accumulate (and intensify) both the positive and
deadly polarities of orgone energy. Orgone accumulators have traditionally
been abbreviated "oracs" and Don sometimes uses that term himself, but Don's
modified version of a Cloudbuster employs the mixture of metal shavings and
plastic resin of the orgone generator and is not the same thing as a
traditional Reichean orogne accumulator or Reichean Cloudbuster. The
marrying of metal shavings and plastic resin of the orgone generator with
Reich's Cloudbuster pipes has resulted in a different atmospheric
instrument, with new and inique attributes from the traditional Reich
Cloudbuster.
It's probably more appropo to call it a "Chembuster" to distinguish it
from Reich's Cloudbuster and avoid misunderstandings among Reich aficionados
and pedagogues. The orgone generator portion of Don's hybrid devices
consists of metal shavings, magnets, crystals, and sometimes a Mobius coil
or spiral coils that are rigidly held in place by epoxy or polyester resin.
With psychic inisights gained form his wife Carol, and a little help from
dowsing, Don had also put together a much smaller, cone shaped orgone
generator using the above mentioned materials and called it a Holy
Handgrenade (HHg) which you can make yourself
(http://educate-yourself.org/dc/HHGconstruction10jan02.shtml) or obtain
one ready made (
http://educate-yourself.org/dc/orgonegenindex.shtml#chembusters )
A number of people have reported unusual and positive emotional/physical
effects produced by a HHg, even from a considerable distance. Don also
incorporated the orgone generator into his Terminator, his latest hybrid
modification of a Dr. Hulda Clark type 'zapper.'
Five Crystal Orgone Generators
Orgone generators have the ability to focus life-positive orgone energy
and break up areas of noxious, life-draining energies of DOR, a word coined
by Wilhelm Reich for Deadly ORgone. Don found that his orgone generator
could neutralize DOR and seemed to only generate positive, life-enhancing
energies. Don and his wife began planting these five crystal orgone
generators at outdoor locations near nuclear power plants and other areas of
noxious, life depleting energies (secret underground and underwater bases,
etc.) and started to have a definite effect on improving the energy fields
radiating from these zones.
Since he already was thinking about using the Reich Cloudbuster to try and
break up chemtrails, Don took it a step further and combined a large version
of his HHg with the rigid copper pipes of a Cloudbuster and a 2 gallon
plastic bucket to hold the whole enchilada together. This modification of
Reich's Cloudbuster into a Chembuster is a unique and original prototype
initiated by Don & Carol Croft and produces some rather 'unique' effects.
Don originally had set up his Chembuster outside on a chemtrail-overcast
day with the pipes pointing straight up and sure enough, after a while, the
chemtrails started to break up revealing blue sky above. The longer he left
the Chembuster in place, the clearer the sky got, eventually covering an
area out to 90 miles. He later improved the Chembuster design and got the
coverage to extend out to 120 miles. A man named Rick from the Los Angeles
area timed how long it took his Chembuster to disperse overhead Chemtrails
and posted his photos to the Don's original Cloudbuster chat forum (now
defunct). Amazingly, the area immediately above Rick's Chembuster
transformed from Chemtrail laden overcast to CLEAR blue sky in less than 10
minutes. You can see the photo sequence here: (
http://educate-yourself.org/dc/dcricks10minctclearingjob.shtml ).
Don had contacted me by E mail last year and was sending me reports of his
success with the Chembuster both in this country and abroad. He had sent the
instructions to an African man named Gert Botha living in Namibia who built
a modified version of the device using locally scavenged materials (read
Africa's First Cloudsbuster (
http://educate-yourself.org/ct/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.shtml )
Initially, Gert found that his Chembuster was having an effect on the
incessant sand storms, causing them to constantly change direction, but
eventually he found that aiming the Chembuster south at an angle of 30
degrees to the horizon forced the sandstorms to stop. After being parked in
this position for two months, his Chembuster brought on torrential rains for
the first time in many dry months to one of the driest regions of Africa.
Your Weekend Project
Complete instructions to make your own Chembuster are included in this
article. It will cost you about $150 US dollars if you buy all of the
materials new, but if you're a scrounger, you can probably do it for the
cost of the plastic resin. The instructions were written by Don Croft, but
the original aritlce has assembled, edited and organized by Stephanie Relfe
who has a couple of great web sites that everyone should take a look at:
www.metatech.org and www.relfe.com .
Anyone with modest do-it-yourself skills can build these devices, but be
aware that a Reichean style Cloudbuster is not a toy. It directs orgone
energy, both the good type and the harmful DOR type. Don's modification of
the traditional CB has removed most of the concern and potential dangers of
DOR, since the orgen neutralizes the DOR, but one individual reported
getting a headache after touching the pipes of a Chembuster and NOT touching
the base to ground himself out. Always touch the base after handling the
pipes of an active Chembuster.
A traditional Cloudbuster patterened after Reich's design has the
potential to be harmful if you don't know what you are doing. Trevor
Constable told me first hand a story about the late Robert McCullough,
Reich's friend and assistant in the Arizona desert in the 1950's. Dr Reich
and Bob were running pioneering experiments with Reich's Cloudbuster in the
desert when Bob had allowed a big (functioning) Cloudbuster to accidentally
touch the side of his bare leg-which instantly paralyzed his leg and caused
him excruciating pain. It took weeks to recover. Bob walked with a limp and
had to use a cane for the rest of his life. The desert environment contains
the highest ratio of atmospheric DOR energy than any other place on Earth,
so it was the worst possible location to have such an accident. You don't
have that sort of concern with Don's Chembuster, but touch the base (just to
be sure) after handling the pipes to avoid the potential of getting a
headache. In general, avoid touching the pipes of a Chembuster after it has
been set up and running for a few days. If you need to touch the pipes of an
active Chembuster, it's a good idea to take a heavy copper conductor wire,
like an battery jumper cable, and touch the jumper cable to each pipe in
turn while holding the opposite end of the cable against the earth (or at
least against the resin/metal matrix of the base if you can't get at the
soil).
Below, you'll find the edited reprint of Don's paper on Chemtrail Busting
and complete instructions for making your own Chembuster or "CB".
While written some time ago, Don's Introductory Notes offer important
insights into the Croft world view and their mission. I believe you will
find it highly informative and in sync with the emerging paradigm of the new
millennium.
CB Parts, Kits, & Finished Chembusters
Don explains in the paper where to locate most supplies for the CB such as
Home Depot. You can obtain quartz crystals for the CB or five crystal orgone
generator from Gladys Bridges<crystals87@sbcglobal.net> in Arkansas
If you wish to obtain a ready made Chembuster in either a 2 gallon or 5
gallon version, using either copper pipes or less costly zinc plated iron
pipes, or a complete Chembuster kit for making the 2 or 5 gallon chembuster,
then visit this link, http://educate-yourself.org/dc/orgonegenindex.shtml
Scroll down to Chembusters.
© Copyright 2002 - 2008 Educate-Yourself.org All Rights Reserved.
How to Build A Chembuster to Disperse Chemtrails
and Improve the Weather
Written by Don Croft <terminator3@turbonet.com>
Edited, assembled, and originally posted by Stephanie Relfe at
http//www.metatech.org
Definition of a contrail: A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high
altitude (about 30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air into a water
vapor or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing tips pushing through
the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few seconds to 15
minutes, as the water vapor evaporates.
Definition of a chemtrail: The term "chemtrail" is a relatively new word,
which appeared in the last few years along with the appearance of
chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a contrail. At first a
chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail. However, instead of disappearing
like a contrail does, a chemtrail just keeps spreading out and forming a
hazy cloud bankout and forming a hazy cloud bank These trails traverse the
whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight hours. . <!--[if
!vml]--> <!--[endif]--> .
They have been known to turn what was originally a clear blue sky into a
grey haze. (Note: As of Nov 2001 there are already several dozen Chembusters
in seven countries, so if you see chemtrails that don't last anywhere near
this long, there may already be a Chembuster in the area). It is believed
chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil based substance of
unknown content that is actually being sprayed from jets on populated areas.
It has also been found that some chemtrails contain red blood cells,
aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses and other unknown biological components. There
are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in
areas where there are chemtrails.
Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings.
Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail at all, and
immediately after the same kind of plane in the same area will start to
leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails
have been photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then
had to start spraying with a new supply.
For information on Chemtrails see the sites listed at
http://www.carnicom.com/contrails.htm
History of the Cloudbuster
The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain.
But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone
energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not
correctly "drained off". This "draining off" of deadly orgone energy was
accomplished by 1. Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water
(difficult) or 2. Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone
accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated
with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the
operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain
dormant for many years.
The Cloudbuster Re-Invented
By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap,
portable and easy-to-build device that <!--[if !vml]--> <!--[endif]-->
consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The "Chembuster"
is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the
CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT
become saturated or dangerous to the operator. You can build one for about
$150.
Join The Battle - Now!
It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot
change the things that are happening to our country. You now have no excuse
for inaction. For a few dollars and a few hours of your time YOU can make a
difference.
A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects
of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from
the unit. If used with Slim Spurling's environmental tools, and a few extra
crystals, the diameter can be increased to about 120 miles in all
directions.
With this device a mere few hundred concerned citizens can SHUT DOWN the
multi-billion dollar chemtrail program. The Chembuster cannot do any damage.
It can only help and heal. It's up to you to join the fight to save America.
Chembuster Construction Details
Chembuster Materials
Set pipes in bottom spacer
Middle Plywood Spacer
CHEMBUSTER DIRECTIONS
BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the
Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from
restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are
fine. Leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the
finished Chembuster.
COPPER PIPES: Six standard Type M, 1" copper pipes, 6' long, open at one
end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the
bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12"
sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers
between the 12" and five-foot pieces. You won't need to buy as much copper
pipe this way, too.
CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated (two pointed ends) quartz crystal,
about 2" long, into a .75" section of garden hose, (or use electrical tape)
then, glue to the inside of each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the
same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use 'Goop'
glue. Tape, or solder around the cap where it joins the pipe to prevent
resin from leaking into the cap during casting. (Note) Another option is
to add one citrine gemstone to each pipe before adding the crystal, this
smoothes the CB's energy and helps to transmute negative energies. However,
citrine does not seem to make the CB any more effective at eliminating
chemtrails.
METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling
yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum
fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight
considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings
from a key-making machine) aren't quite as good as ones that will easily go
through a ½" screen are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability!
PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4" exterior plywood is used to make the base for the
copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2" radius
circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2" apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4" auger
bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap.
Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket.
Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to
remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just
used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the
holes in this with a 1 1/8" flat bit so that it will fit well over the six
pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of
resin hardens.
Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes,
4" radius with 1 1/8" holes on the same 2 1/2" radius circles for the pipe
ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid.
Not to scale Widest circle is 9 1/8"
RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats), but epoxy
also works, as does Envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very
quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). If you are going to
construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon
buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing
supply company. Home Depot gets $24 per gallon for resin.
On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom
of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and
flat. CAUTION: Resin fumes are flammable; use in a warm, but well
ventilated area.
The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal
particles (equal volume of resin to metal particles). Put the base Template
1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and
doesn't sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket
after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the
dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before.
Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the
bucket with the resin squishing over the top.
Carefully move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly
within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the
pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has
hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used
during construction, as I mentioned.
You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if
you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it's
finished (wait until it hardens before you move it. You will actually use
about one gallon of metal shavings and 1 ½ gal. of resin.
A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY:
Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the
base. Buy six coupler joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both
directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the
pipe assembly from three pipes, 10' long, cut in half. The finished product
leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover.
When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix,
temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles are
dropped in them by mistake.
After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece
down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket.
Put the spacers (soldered if desired), then the 5' pipes onto the 12" base
pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the 5' copper pipes.
The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood
piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim
plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though
not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn't harden before you're done.
We experimented with 5' extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It
had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet
for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare
facility under Homestead Air Force Base by leaving the extended Chembuster
pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week.
We found that we don't need to point it in any particular direction in
order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it's left
standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the Chembuster (many
miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once
eliminate a belt of smog, which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a
few minutes, so direction can be a factor.
Chembusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for
your Chembuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after
that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and
dissipated trails that drift within range of the Chembuster will also
disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer
to dissipate, but we've found that these only make up about 10% or so of the
spewing episodes.
Dr. Reich's Cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since
he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge
which can quickly drain one's life force away when it's concentrated in one
spot. It's similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field.
When cloud cover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for
instance, or too much rain) the Chembuster busts it up.
It also may help stop drought. Overall, it just balances the weather, I
think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The
one in Namibia, Africa finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It
happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made
the Chembuster and reported the occurrence (
http://educate-yourself.org/africasfirstcloudbusterjun01.html ), told me
that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best
of anyone's knowledge. It's arguably the driest region on the planet.
WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they're drawing in strong unbalanced
or dead orgone and don't put your hand on the base after that, you may
experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did
recently.
Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen
mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word.
SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the
material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. In
freezing climates, cover the top of the six pipes with mini umbrellas so
water can't freeze and shatter the crystals. The CB appears to effect
chemtrails equally well whether it's placed indoors or out. Up to seven
crystals can be placed in each pipe to improve performance.
CB plowing through chemtrails in the midwest
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